When we headed for a week in the Central Drakensberg recently, our goal was to do as little as possible – this was our annual holiday and we badly needed a break. We booked a week’s timeshare at the Drakensberg Sun and headed into the mountains dreaming of long lazy morning lie-ins, afternoon naps and plenty of early nights – completely contrary to our usual action-packed adventures.
After a day or two, we had done exactly what we planned – absolutely nothing. Although very relaxing for some of us, cabin fever started to kick in for others and our teens were starting to bounce off the walls and each other. So, we reluctantly emerged from our beds, grabbed our backpacks and headed off each day to see what the Central Berg has in store for adventurous families.
First up had to be hiking – we love wandering through the great outdoors and the Drakensberg is as spectacular a setting as you can get. With its majestic mountain peaks, craggy valleys and crystal clear streams and waterfalls, it is no wonder that it is rated as one of the world’s top hiking destinations.
There are 5 resident hikes on Drakensberg Sun’s property and we kicked off with the most popular – the Blue Grotto trail – which leads up a verdant valley through a rainforest to a hidden grotto with a clear blue pool and waterfall.
You can choose to hike to the grotto and back again, or to continue past the grotto all the way up to the top of the mountain and return to the hotel via the Fern Forest trail.
The hotel offers guided walks each day and we joined in on the Skeleton Gorge trail, which crosses private land so can only be accessed with a guide. The trail leads through a gorge where quite shockingly remains of human bones were found which showed signs of cannibalism in the area in the past, hence the name Skeleton Gorge. The trail then winds up to a tall bluff with spectacular views overlooking the hotel.
Hikers are spoilt for choice at Monk’s Cowl, a short drive away from most Central Berg hotels. The reserve forms part of the Maloti-Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site and boasts incredible vistas of magnificent rock cliffs and formations. There are a multitude of day hikes ranging from one hour to six hours and we chose to do the Sphinx – a winding footpath up the hills to the Crystal Falls and the Sphinx rock formation. We scrambled up onto the rocks above the Sphinx and were rewarded with the most magnificent 360 degree view and the perfect spot to strike a hiking pose or two.
This is another spectacular hiker’s playground, also forming part of the Maloti-Drakensberg World Heritage site. The mountains of Cathedral Peak look almost other-worldly. They are so tall and craggy with lots of interesting shapes. There is just so much choice for hiking and we are definitely going to return to this paradise to walk more of its paths in the future. We only visited for a day this time and while the boys were fishing, I wandered the foothills of the hotel, marvelling at the views, breathing in the crisp, clean mountain air and engulfed in complete and utter silence.
Tip – both Monk’s Cowl and Didima-Cathedral Peak can be accessed with a Wild Card
Although we were promised trout fishing at Drakensberg Sun, the dam has been hit hard by drought and the difficult conditions have meant no stocking for the past year or two. The boys still tried their luck, but there was no sign of fish whatsoever. We hit paydirt at Cathedral Peak though – they run their own hatchery and have a series of dams full of stocked trout. The boys had a wonderful day casting, hooking and releasing rainbow stockies while I photographed the spectacular scenery mirrored in the still waters. Pure and utter bliss!
What is a holiday without good food? We were spoilt for choice in the Central Drakensburg. There are so many charming country restaurants and eateries offering everything from freshly baked bread to chocolate tastings. Our favourites were the Champagne Bistro where the owners cooked up the best little taster burgers and ploughman’s platters, Chocolate Memories where the entire menu is made from chocolate – ranging from chocolate fondues to hot chocolate, chocolate water, chocolate slush and free tastings of their delicious artisan chocolate bars, and the Waffle Hut which serves hundreds of savoury and sweet waffles making it enjoyably difficult to choose what to order.
As you would expect in an area that attracts loads of tourists and arty folk, there are some delightful little shops to browse and tempt you to swap your money for a Drakensberg keepsake. The Thokozisa Lifestyle Centre is well worth a visit – full of charming little trinket shops, a lovely deli packed full of incredible homemade jams, preserves and sauces and amazingly arty gardens where you can sit and enjoy your purchases.
The Valley Bakery sells giant croissants and the most divine scones and shortbread. Chocolate Memories wholesales its range of delightful artisan chocolate bars and we stocked up with bars as gifts for our loved ones back home, although the chocolate is soooo good that shamefully most of the bars did not survive our road trip home.
Just being in the mountains is an adventure, but for those in search of some extra adrenaline, there are some great looking options. Although our budget did not stretch to adrenaline activities, we looked up in awe and envy as people zigzagged across the canyon high above us, whooping as they zipped above the canopy of the Blue Grotto hiking trail with Drakensberg Canopy Tours. Having recently been on a Scootour in the Knysna Forest, we noticed with interest that Scootours offered a 5.4km downhill descent at Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort. There is also horse riding, river rafting and helicopter flights – all wonderful alternatives to exploring on your own two feet or four wheels.
Before we knew it, all of a sudden our week had come to an end and it was time to return home. Visiting the incredible Maloti-Drakensberg World Heritage site at both Monk’s Cowl and Cathedral Peak by no means satisfied our hunger for the mountains. It only served to tease our appetite as a starter and we are yearning to return for the main course. It was absolutely breath-taking in winter with its brown slopes and clear skies and I can only imagine how incredible it must be to visit when the hills are verdantly alive and there are puffy white clouds in a blue sky.
The timeshare units at Drakensberg Sun were divine – really well appointed and comfortable with lovely views and access to all the facilities of the hotel property. It was a lovely base for spending a week in the ‘Berg and allowing us to truly relax in between the adventuring.
We would love to hear your suggestions and recommendations on more things to do and places to stay in the Central Drakensberg – please leave us a comment below.
Yours in travel
Leave a Reply